Andy's Tanganyikan Tank

The tank at just six weeks old
Introduction
This is a return to keeping Tanganyikans for me. During the mid
90s they seemed to be very popular and as a result a wide variety of
species were available locally. Towards the end of the 90s that
popularity had begun to fade and they were no longer to be found in
the shops. When this happened I moved on to try my hand at keeping
Discus and bought some wild type Discus around 2" in diam. These grew
quite nicely and out of the six that I bought I managed to get two
breeding pairs. Breeding Discus for the first time was a real thrill
and it came with a real sense of achievement but then they bred again
and again and I realised that although keeping and hopefully breeding
Discus had been a long time ambition of mine, that these fish really
weren't for me.
I had seen many planted tanks which looked absolutely stunning and
never having had much luck with plants I did some research and decided
to give it a go. I opted to use the Denerle method. The tank was a
huge success and every plant I tried grew exceptionally well including
a Madagascan lace plant which grew to gigantic proportions before
turning itself into three separate plants which also grew to the same
huge size. After five years I decided to have a change, after all I'm
essentially more interested in fish than plants.
So having spent several weeks thinking about it I decided to re-visit
an old favourite and go East African. To Lake Tanganyika, and this is
how I did it (so far).
Setting Up
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This was the starting point, my
planted tank. First job was to re-home the fish and break down the
tank. I decided that rather than throw away all my plants I could
maybe exchange them for some tuffa rock or something else which
I'd need for the new set up. |
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No turning back now!!! This was the
moment when I finally committed to making the change. I had no
idea just how much plant life there was in that tank.
Unfortunately one or two fish had escaped notice and were still in
the tank, more about that later. The substrate was dual layer and
consisted of a sand/compost layer topped with fine gravel. These
layers which had remained in tact for the last five years, well
lets just say they'll never get to six years. The tank was now
filthy. |
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I had to make two journey's before I
had got rid of all the plants, my local fish shop where glad to
take them and gave me some tuffa rock to get me started. But
having thought about it, I didn't want the usual wall of tuffa at
the rear of the tank then add a few fish and call it a Tanganyikan
tank, I needed more than that to replace my planted tank. So I
thought I'd include some drift wood and plants in this tank. Lake
Tanganyika has rain forest right up to its shores at Gombi, so
wood isn't really out of place and there are huge beds of Vallis
to be found in the lake so again it isn't out of place. |
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The first attempt at aquascaping
didn't really hit the mark somehow. I tried it like this for a
couple of days before realising that I really had to change it. I
thought the general idea with the wood and plants would work
having seen it for the first time but not in its present layout. |
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I'm much happier with this now. As
soon as I'd done it I knew that I'd keep this one. Once the other
details are added and the plants have hopefully established it
should begin to look like the imaginary picture I have in my head.
Now that the water has cleared and the water chemistry has been
slowly adjusted I decided to add the first fish so that the
biological filter could be kept ticking over. |
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Adding the detail, this is one of the
best parts. Most of the hard work has been done and now it's time
to start enjoying the process. I added 50kgs of North Sea cobbles.
I got them from the garden centre, although I was hoping for
smaller bags with me being on a motor cycle and only having a
rucksack to carry them in. It made for an interesting ride home
across the moors after dark, in the fog and drizzle. |
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The Vallis looks to be establishing
and although it died down it has a lot of new growth appearing
from the bottom. The water should suit it and the planted tank
lighting of 4 x 40watt tubes each with a reflector combined with
the dual layer substrate of sand/compost topped with fine gravel
all over an heater cable, really should mean it will succeed. |
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After about three weeks the Vallis
has become well established and algae is starting to grow on the
rockwork giving a more natural appearance to the tank. I upgraded
the filter from a Tetratec 700 which I used on the planted tank to
a Tetratec 1200. The upgrade has been a great success and the
water is much improved. More fish have been added to the tank
which means the tank almost has a full compliment of fish. |
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The Fish
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These are the fish in the tank, all have settled in
well and without any losses. From left to right, Neolamprologus
multifasciatus, Neolamprologus pulcher, Altolamprologus
compresiceps, Neolamprologus sexfasciatus, Cyprichromis leptosoma, Julidochromis regani
and finally Neolamprologus leleupi.
All of them are endemic to Lake Tanganyika although some will
never meet in the wild because they are restricted to certain
areas of the lake and are found no where else. They have all
settled in well and for the most part are living peacefully
together apart from the odd minor territorial dispute.
Plants
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These photos were taken over a one month
period. |
Substrate
A 25Watt heater cable was laid out evenly on the glass base of
the tank then a 50 - 50 mixture by volume, of silica sand and
aquatic compost was placed over it to a depth of approximately
one to two inches sloping from back to front. This layer
stopped just short of the front glass so that it didn't look
unsightly. This was then covered with fine quartz gravel to a
depth of two to three inches.Lighting
Four, forty watt tubes with reflectors have been used, the two
rear tubes are Trocal tubes made by Denerle and are specially
designed to encourage plant growth. The front two tubes are
Triton and Triton daylight plus which reflect the fishes
colours better than the plant tubes. The lights are on a timer
and are on for twelve hours per day.
Vallis
Unlike most plants Vallis grows very well in hard water. It
grows even better if there is calcium in the water, and it is
found in Lake Tanganyika so it is the perfect plant to use in
a Tanganyikan tank.
When I bought three bunches of the plant it had very thin
narrow leaves and was in quite poor condition. But within just
one month of being planted it had formed a dense bed and the
new leaves were much broader and brighter looking. Vallis is
an extremely vigorous plant which send out runners all over
the place so it needs regular pruning to keep it in check. I
want to avoid it from growing up between the stones and shells
if possible or it will start to look untidy.
The leaves can be cropped shorter too without a problem should
they get to long, the best way to do this is to crop them a
few inches above the water line so that the cropping is kept
fairly well hidden.
Algae
There is some algae present but there isn't an algae problem.
The algae on the stones and substrate gives a more natural and
less clinical look to the tank. It isn't growing on the plants
and it is removed from the glass, other than that it is left
alone. |
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Breeding
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The first fry appeared from the shell dwellers
Neolamprologus multifasciatus after just four weeks.
Shell Dweller fry again!!!. This is a very pleasing
moment for me, there are
about 14 of them and all are being well looked after by their
parents and the fry have good survival instincts of their own and
dash into a shell if any other fish is foolish enough to come close.
All the fry are still there and doing well after having been free
swimming for a further three weeks
Both the N pulcher and J regani are showing signs of
becoming territorial and pairing off so hopefully there will be
more fry on the way soon. |
Water Quality
Water chemistry is an issue for me because my tap
water is very soft and almost free of any minerals. To combat this
I have been experimenting with a couple of marine products.
I use a carbonate buffer which increases the KH to the desired
level and raises the pH to around 8.4. I also add Calcium in the
form of Kalkwasser rather than use a magnesium product like epsom
salt which is to unnatural. Finally I use a trace element product
to maintain all the biologically important minor and trace element
levels up. So far this has proved to be a great success as it
allows me closely replicate the fishes natural conditions. |